Woe is the Smelt: How Farms, Cities, and Trump Threaten a California Ecosystem
Bitterroot | August 2019
Near the concrete banks of the California Aqueduct, a small hangar houses a series of tanks five feet in diameter. One day in July, Tien-Chieh Hung, an aquacultural engineer, peered over the side of one, and shined a flashlight into the depths of its temperature-controlled water. A school of iridescent fish about as long as your pinky finger glided in and out of visibility. “That’s delta smelt,” Hung said, before quickly turning off his light and closing the tank’s fine-mesh cover. “They’re a sensitive fish.”

A Harvest from the Garden of the Sea: FreshCatch Brings the Watery Sense of Place to Our Plates
Edible East Bay | August 2019
As the tide ebbs, O’Hollaren spots the ogo waving in the water in long strands between other favorite edible seaweed species in this “garden of the sea,” to use his favored term for such places with their abundance of raw ingredients. Dwarf rockweed, cat’s tongue, splendid iridescent, sea palm, nori . . . each glistens in the sunlight breaking through the early morning fog. O’Hollaren kneels down to cut the mermaid’s hair. “I want people to taste seaweed in its essence,” says the Ventura-born, Hawai'i-educated coastal forager. “The textures, the flavor, the whole integrity of it in its rawest form.”

Oyster Coast: Threats to our favorite bivalve result in conservation efforts on the half-shell
Texas Parks & Wildlife Magazine | January 2019
Our oyster consumption precedes written history — or as Robert Hendrickson, editor of the thick Ocean Almanac, wrote: “Man has played his part in oyster population control since before we made our controversial move from monkeydom.” Perhaps that’s why I feel a sort of primal sense there on Cendejas’ boat, holding my breakfast in my hand as it continues to pump its colorless blood through its three-chambered heart. But oysters don’t come any fresher, so I bring the muddy valve to my lips and knock it back.

Reforestation Experts Help Restore a Wild Blanco River
Reporting Texas | November 2017
The flood deforested much of the riverside — uprooting iconic bald cypresses, pecans, sycamores and leaving behind mangled earth and debris. In a single night, it seemed that the ideal Hill Country riverside house with its shaded and manicured riverbank had met its match: a riparian environment in flux.